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LAO PDR: Bombs and relics

Boua Van

What are the mysterious urns on the Plain of Jars in Laos' Xieng Khouang province? What were they for? Why did people thousands of years ago hack and carve these arresting shapes and transport them here from stone quarries at least eight kilometres away?

Investigations are now under way to find the answers to these questions and secure World Heritage status for the Plain of Jars. In a unique partnership assisted by funds from the government of New Zealand, archaeological investigations are under way, assisted by MAG, the landmine clearance and explosive ordnance disposal charity that is making the area safe for the archaeologists to work and for tourists to visit.

MAG is working with UNESCO to make safe areas of the Plain of Jars, precisely date the jars, investigate their purpose and enter them for World Heritage status next year. The ancient vessels can be found at more than 50 sites in the province. They are thought to have been made between 500 BC and 500 AD - nobody knows for sure.

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Locals believe they were made to store a locally produced rice wine called lao lao but their purpose is uncertain. Archaeologist Julie Van Den Berg is heading a team of local staff that she is training to conduct investigations and work to preserve the sites in the future.

She believes the Jars may have something to do with burials: "Burial sites have been found close to the jars under stone disks. One theory is that the jars were used to decompose bodies, the bones then buried in clay pots nearby. It's also possible that the remains were kept in the jars themselves. We won't know until we do further archaeological investigations.

 

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Trenches zigzag between the jars, and huge bomb craters from 1000-pound aerial bombs are reminders of the heavy fighting and bombardments of the 1960s and early 1970s. MAG has also found hundreds of lethal bomblets, mortar bombs and high explosive anti-aircraft bullets during the search.

MAG's work is an integral element of this project. The clearance enables further archaeological investigation and makes the areas safe for future tourists. "We have lost so much to war. It is essential that we preserve what is left," said Julie, "We know from previous studies that many jars were destroyed". Three of the largest, most impressive and the most accessible of the Jar sites have been chosen as the current focus for clearance in consultation with UNESCO, the Ministry of Tourism and the Ministry of Information and Culture.

The work between the UNESCO team and MAG has been very productive. MAG teams have themselves made important archaeological finds. "They have found stone tools, pottery and bones which appear to be from the same period as the jars," said Ms Van den Berg. "MAG's work is actually very similar to archaeology! The area to be cleared is planned and marked out very carefully, all information is recorded, and when they find something they have to be very careful not to disturb it."

MAG has completed the first 26 hectare site: 127 explosive items including bomblets, rockets, artillery shells, mortars and 20mm anti-aircraft rounds were found and destroyed. 31,000 other metal items, mostly fragmentation, were also found - this metal contamination in battle areas such as this explains why it can take time to clear an area.

The clearance team is a MAG innovation. It's called Village-Assisted Clearance. Eighteen people from the immediate area are trained to carefully clear away the brush, use a metal detector and recognise ordnance that is prevalent in the area. When the detectors sound out for a suspect item, other MAG's specialists come to check.

The teams are supported by a medic and supervised by a team leader and a MAG expatriate technical field manager. "The teams are not able to get into dangerous situations and, what's more, the cash paid to the teams tends to stay in the local community and generates more income," said Sean Sutton, MAG's information manager.

Twenty-three year-old mother of two Boua Van completed her training a few days ago: "It is great for me and my family to have this job, the money will help us a lot. Clearing the bombs from here will help my village and more tourists will come. This is very good for everyone."

When MAG moves to the next site, they will start the process again, train new people from that locality, and thus provide new employment opportunities for another village.

Making the sites safe and securing world heritage status will be very beneficial for Laos and the local population. The jars will get the publicity and exposure they deserve increasing the numbers of tourists to the area.

The villages here are very poor - most people are subsistence farmers. They will benefit financially selling snacks and souvenirs to the tourists, indeed some of those who have earned money from the MAG project have set up similar small businesses.

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November 2004

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